Guatemala is a country of contrasts, vibrant colors, and breathtaking landscapes. Over the course of three weeks, I had the chance to immerse myself in its rich culture, explore ancient ruins, and connect with its warm and welcoming people. Here’s a breakdown of my journey and some tips for anyone planning their own adventure in this stunning Central American destination.
Three of the places I stayed were part of a Guatemalan boutique hotel chain that’s known for its consistently high-quality yet affordable accommodations. A couple others didn’t make it into this blog—I just wouldn’t recommend them.
Week 1: Antigua and Lake Atitlán
My journey began in Antigua, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a colonial gem cradled by three towering volcanoes. With its cobblestone streets, vibrant facades, and centuries-old ruins, walking through Antigua felt like stepping back in time. The Main Square, framed by the grand Cathedral San José and the intriguing Fuente de las Sirenas, was the perfect spot for people-watching.
Highlights of My Visit:
- Royal Palace of the Captains General – The museum houses a fascinating collection of pre-Columbian artifacts providing insight into the region’s rich history.
- Cerro de la Cruz – A short but rewarding hike leading to a breathtaking panoramic view of the city, framed by Volcán de Agua.
- Iglesia de la Merced and Convent – A striking yellow church with an ornate facade, adjacent convent ruins, and spectacular rooftop views, especially magical at night. Visiting during the Saturday night market was a treat, with delicious local street food.
- Convent of the Capuchinas & Santa Clara Convent – The ruins of the 18th-century Convent of the Capuchinas feature a circular courtyard lined with former nun cells, while the Santa Clara Convent, one of the most beautifully preserved ruins in Antigua, offers a peaceful glimpse into the past.
- Arco de Santa Catalina – Antigua’s most iconic landmark, this picturesque archway is a must-see.
- San Jose Cathedral Ruins – The remains of the 16th-century cathedral, a stunning example of colonial architecture, destroyed in an 18th-century earthquake.
Off the Beaten Track: I had the unforgettable experience of visiting a small, family-run coffee plantation in San Miguel Escobar through a coffee cooperative tour. The proud owner guided us through the entire coffee-making process, from harvesting to roasting and brewing, all done using traditional methods. We then enjoyed a homemade lunch in his home, sharing heartfelt conversations and an authentic glimpse into the life of a local coffee farmer.
Where I Stayed in Antigua: Hotel Villa Colonial, a charming and well-maintained property with a tranquil interior courtyard and small pool. The staff was welcoming, and the on-site restaurant served delicious breakfasts and dinners with stunning volcano views. Filtered water refill stations were a thoughtful touch. The only slight downside is the 25–30 minute walk to the town’s main attractions, though some may enjoy the peaceful setting away from the busier center.
Lake Atitlán & San Juan La Laguna – From Antigua, I traveled to breathtaking Lake Atitlán, a stunning crater lake surrounded by towering volcanoes and picturesque villages. One of the best ways to take in the lake’s beauty is from Mirador Kaqasiiwaan in San Juan La Laguna. The challenging hike was worth it for the sweeping views. At the top, local vendors offered refreshments, and I enjoyed the scenery with an icy cold Gallo beer in hand.
Beyond the viewpoint, San Juan La Laguna is a vibrant town with a colorful pedestrian street lined with murals, cozy cafés, and artisan shops. I highly recommend stopping by Casa Flor Ixcaco, a cooperative where artisans craft stunning handwoven textiles using traditional Mayan techniques.
Where I stayed in Lake Atitlan: Hotel Villa Santa Catarina is a peaceful retreat just a short stroll from both the lake and the village. Tucked behind secure gates, the property opens up to lush gardens, an outdoor swimming pool and a smaller geothermal soaking pool, and views of the lake and volcanoes. The on-site restaurant served excellent meals in a relaxed open-air setting. One of my favorite spots was the cozy sitting area by the fireplace. Pro tip: don’t miss the gin and tonics—bright, botanical, and with a hint of spice, they taste like Christmas in a glass.
Week 2: The Highlands, Semuc Champey, Lanquin Caves, Aquateca
The Highlands Heading into the highlands, I was captivated by the vibrant traditional clothing worn by the indigenous people. The markets in Chichicastenango and Chajul were a sensory overload of textiles, crafts, and local produce. The Chichicastenango Cemetery was one of the most unique cemeteries I’ve visited, where I witnessed Mayan rituals with offerings, incense, and candles.
Semuc Champey – This natural wonder was a highlight of the trip. One of the most adventurous ways to get between Lanquín and Semuc Champey is by hopping into the back of a pick-up truck—a common (and slightly wild) local mode of transport. The ride takes about 20 minutes, and standing in the back while gripping the rails as you wind through jungle-covered hills (fortunately on a paved road) is an adrenaline rush all its own. What makes Semuc Champey truly special is its unique geology: the Río Cahabón actually flows beneath a natural limestone bridge, while above it, a series of stunning turquoise pools have formed. Though the hike up to the viewpoint and to the pools was treacherous to the slippery wood steps and limestone, spending a couple hours soaking in the pools made it worth the effort. Pro tip: wear water sandals with good traction (such as Keens or Tevas).
Lanquin Caves – An intense adventure awaited in these caves, where sections of the trail were so rugged that even locals turned back. Navigating slippery limestone, broken bridges, and crumbling staircases required caution. The ancient Maya saw these caves as a gateway to the underworld, holding sacred ceremonies deep inside. Stalactites and stalagmites twist through the dimly lit cave. Pro tip: Bring thin gloves (bat guano is real) and a headlamp — it beats juggling your phone flashlight.
Aguateca – This archaeological site in the Petén region involved a challenging guided hike (though there is an easier paths to the ruins). After a steep climb to the viewpoint, I watched a troupe of howler monkeys — their eerie calls echoing through the forest. The trail continued through a narrow limestone passage, involving scrambling over boulders and navigating slippery limestone paths. While the ruins draw visitors, the rugged trail is secluded.
Where I Stayed in Lanquin: Hotel El Recreo — said to be one of the better options in town. Nestled in the jungle, the property has a mix of rustic accommodations. My room was in a corridor near reception: simple and a bit rough around the edges (the lamp glued to the nightstand didn’t work), but clean, with hot water in the shower. The onsite restaurant is convenient and the food was decent, though service was slow.
Week 3: Flores, Tikal, Quiriguá, Livingston, Guatemala City
Flores – This small island town on Lake Petén Itzá served as the gateway to Tikal. With its cobblestone streets and colorful buildings, Flores was charming. I enjoyed sunset views over the lake and tried subanik, a traditional stew.
Tikal – A UNESCO site, Tikal is one of the most awe-inspiring Mayan archaeological wonders. Towering temples rise above the jungle, and the calls of howler monkeys add to the atmosphere. A guided tour is highly recommended for historical context and navigation.
Quiriguá – This lesser-known UNESCO site captivates with towering Maya stelae and intricately carved zoomorphic sculptures. Set in lush jungle, it offers a peaceful yet powerful connection to ancient history.
Where I Stayed in Flores: Hotel Maya International is located in Santa Elena, about a 15-minute walk across the bridge to the island of Flores. The hotel offers simple rooms with small balconies, and its on-site restaurant opens onto a short boardwalk overlooking the lagoon—perfect for spotting colorful waterfowl in the early morning light. I spent New Year’s Eve here and enjoyed beautiful views of fireworks lighting up the sky from the surrounding villages.
My journey from Flores to Livingston was an unforgettable adventure. It took nearly 5 hours by car to reach Río Dulce, then I boarded a small boat for a wet and windy 1.5-hour ride down the river. Along the way, I paused to admire the lagoon with orange iguanas and colorful waterfowl. Despite the choppy ride, arriving in Livingston felt like reaching a hidden paradise—soaked, windblown, and grateful.
Livingston – At the mouth of the Dulce River and accessible only by boat, this laid-back coastal village offers a refreshing change of pace. It’s a unique blend of Afro-Caribbean influences and the traditions of the Garifuna people. It is easily explored on foot, touristy shops along the main street, local markets, a couple bars with a sea view, and a colorful cemetery.
Where I stayed in Livingston: Hotel Villa Caribe, a tropical retreat with lush surroundings, complete with a spacious swimming pool and a welcoming atmosphere. Upon arrival, we were greeted with fresh coconuts—optionally spiked with a splash of local rum—which set the tone for a relaxing stay. The on-site restaurant served up flavorful local cuisine and featured entertainment with traditional music and dancers that brought the vibrant culture of Livingston to life.
My journey wrapped up in Guatemala City, where I hired a guide for a half-day spin tour through the historic district. We wandered through the Mercado Central, visited the Relief Map of Guatemala—a great way to grasp the country’s dramatic topography—and admired the grandeur of the Palacio National Palace of Culture and the iconic Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago of Guatemala. It was a fitting finale to an incredible adventure.
As a delightful bonus, I indulged in a flaky, buttery croissant at the beloved San Martín Bakery, a spot my guide swore had the best in the city—and I had no reason to disagree!
Final Thoughts
Guatemala is a destination with it all: stunning landscapes, rich history, and warm hospitality. Three weeks felt like just enough time to scratch the surface, but there’s so much more to discover. If you’re considering a trip, don’t hesitate—Guatemala will capture your heart just as it did mine.
Tips for Travelers:
- Transportation: In cities, taxis (negotiate fares before you jump in) and ride-sharing are widely available. In mountainous regions, renting a car or joining a tour is best.
- Safety: I generally felt safe, even in tourist areas of Guatemala City during the day, though I avoided exploring at night. Antigua felt especially secure with its strong police presence and well-traveled streets.
- Packing: Bring layers, as temperatures vary between the highlands and lowland jungles.
- Currency: The Guatemalan quetzal is the official currency, with bills featuring the colorful national bird. While quetzales are widely accepted, it’s useful to carry small U.S. dollar bills, especially for tips or in tourist-friendly areas.
- Souvenirs: Skip street vendors unless you’re fine with mass-produced trinkets. For authentic, locally crafted keepsakes, check out artisan markets, independent shops, and museum gift stores.
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