Exploring Guatemala: A Three-Week Adventure
Guatemala is a country of contrasts, vibrant colors, and breathtaking landscapes. Over the course of three weeks, I had the chance to immerse myself in its rich culture, explore ancient ruins, and connect with its warm and welcoming people. Here’s a breakdown of my journey and some tips for anyone planning their own adventure in this stunning Central American destination.
Week 1: Antigua and Lake Atitlán
My journey began in Antigua, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a colonial gem cradled by three towering volcanoes. With its cobblestone streets, vibrant facades, and centuries-old ruins, walking through Antigua felt like stepping back in time. The Main Square, framed by the grand Cathedral San José and the intriguing Fuente de las Sirenas, was the perfect spot for people-watching.
Highlights of My Visit:
- Royal Palace of the Captains General Museum – A fascinating collection of pre-Columbian artifacts providing insight into the region’s rich history.
- Cerro de la Cruz – A short but rewarding hike leading to a breathtaking panoramic view of the city, framed by Volcán de Agua.
- Iglesia de la Merced – A striking yellow church with an ornate facade, adjacent convent ruins, and spectacular rooftop views, especially magical at night. Visiting during the Saturday night market was a treat, with delicious local street food.
- Convento Capuchinas – The ruins of this 18th-century nunnery feature a circular courtyard lined with former nun cells.
- Santa Clara Convent – One of the most beautifully preserved ruins in Antigua, offering a peaceful glimpse into the past.
- Arco de Santa Catalina – Antigua’s most iconic landmark, this picturesque archway is a must-see.
Off the Beaten Track: I had the unforgettable experience of visiting a small, family-run coffee plantation in San Miguel Escobar through a coffee cooperative tour. The proud owner guided us through the entire coffee-making process, from harvesting to roasting and brewing, all done using traditional methods. We then enjoyed a homemade lunch in his home, sharing heartfelt conversations and an authentic glimpse into the life of a local coffee farmer.
I stayed at Hotel Villa Colonial, a charming and well-maintained property with a tranquil interior courtyard and small pool. The staff was welcoming, and the on-site restaurant served delicious breakfasts with stunning volcano views. Filtered water refill stations were a thoughtful touch.
Lake Atitlán & San Juan La Laguna From Antigua, I traveled to breathtaking Lake Atitlán, a stunning crater lake surrounded by towering volcanoes and picturesque villages. One of the best ways to take in the lake’s beauty is from Mirador Kaqasiiwaan in San Juan La Laguna. The challenging hike was worth it for the sweeping views. At the top, local vendors offered refreshments, and I enjoyed the scenery with an icy cold Gallo beer in hand.
Beyond the viewpoint, San Juan La Laguna is a vibrant town with a colorful pedestrian street lined with murals, cozy cafés, and artisan shops. I highly recommend stopping by Casa Flor Ixcaco, a cooperative where artisans craft stunning handwoven textiles using traditional Mayan techniques.
Week 2: The Highlands, Semuc Champey, Lanquin Caves, Aquateca
The Highlands Heading into the highlands, I was captivated by the vibrant traditional clothing worn by the indigenous people. The markets in Chichicastenango and Chajul were a sensory overload of textiles, crafts, and local produce. The Cementerio De Chichicastenango was one of the most unique cemeteries I’ve visited, where I witnessed Mayan rituals with offerings, incense, and candles.
Semuc Champey This natural wonder near Cobán was a highlight of the trip. The turquoise pools atop a limestone bridge were mesmerizing. Though the hike was treacherous due to the slippery limestone, spending hours soaking in the pools made it worth the effort.
Lanquin Caves An intense adventure awaited in these caves, where sections of the trail were so rugged that even locals turned back. Navigating slippery limestone, broken bridges, and crumbling staircases required caution. Pro tip: Bring thin gloves (to protect against bat guano) and a flashlight!
Aguateca This archaeological site in the Petén region involved the most challenging hike of the trip. I trekked up to a viewpoint where I enjoyed the antics (and eery calls resounding through the forest) of a troupe of howler monkeys. Then I scrambled over boulders and down narrow, slippery limestone trails. While the ruins attract visitors, the rugged trails remain secluded.
Week 3: Flores, Tikal, Quiriguá, Livingston, Guatemala City
Flores This small island town on Lake Petén Itzá served as the gateway to Tikal. With its cobblestone streets and colorful buildings, Flores was charming. I enjoyed sunset views over the lake and tried subanik, a traditional stew.
Tikal A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Tikal is one of the most awe-inspiring Mayan archaeological wonders. Towering temples rise above the jungle, and the calls of howler monkeys add to the atmosphere. A guided tour is highly recommended for historical context and navigation.
Quiriguá This lesser-known UNESCO site features impressive Mayan stelae, towering stone monuments intricately carved with details. It was a peaceful yet awe-inspiring connection to ancient history.
Livingston A change of pace, this town blends Afro-Caribbean culture with vibrant local life. I stayed at Hotel Villa Caribe, a tropical retreat with lush surroundings, a large swimming pool, and welcoming ambiance. The hotel’s restaurant also didn’t disappoint, serving up delicious local dishes.
My trip concluded in Guatemala City, where I hired a guide for a half-day spin tour. We explored the Mercado Central and cultural landmarks like The Relief Map of Guatemala, Palacio Nacional de la Cultura, and the iconic Catedral Metropolitana de Santiago de Guatemala—a fitting end to an incredible journey.
Final Thoughts
Guatemala is a destination with it all: stunning landscapes, rich history, and warm hospitality. Three weeks felt like just enough time to scratch the surface, but there’s so much more to discover. If you’re considering a trip, don’t hesitate—Guatemala will capture your heart just as it did mine.
Tips for Travelers:
- Transportation: In cities, taxis (negotiate fares before you jump in) and ride-sharing are widely available. In mountainous regions, renting a car or joining a tour is best. Chicken buses are prevalent, but I didn’t use them.
- Safety: I generally felt safe, even in tourist areas of Guatemala City during the day, though I avoided exploring at night. Antigua felt especially secure with its strong police presence and well-traveled streets.
- Packing: Bring layers, as temperatures vary between the highlands and lowland jungles.
- Currency: The Guatemalan quetzal is widely used, but small USD bills can be helpful.
- Souvenirs: Skip street vendors unless you’re fine with mass-produced trinkets. For authentic, locally crafted keepsakes, check out artisan markets, independent shops, and museum gift stores.
