Northern Portugal: A 3-Week Journey with Friends
Northern Portugal is a region brimming with history, stunning landscapes, and incredible food. Over the course of three weeks, I had the pleasure of exploring this beautiful area with my friend Helene, a true traveling nomad. Adding to the adventure, our friend Denise, who splits her time between the Algarve and Porto, joined us for a few days, making the experience even more unforgettable.
Week 1: Porto, Vila Nova de Gaia, and Coimbra
We began our journey in Porto, where our Airbnb featured a tiny balcony with a five-star view of the iconic Luis I Bridge and the Douro River. Porto quickly captured our hearts with its cobblestone streets, vibrant atmosphere, and delicious cuisine.
Highlights from Porto
Walking and Food Tours
We immersed ourselves in Porto’s culture through two engaging tours—one exploring the local food scene, starting at Mercado do Bolhão, and another focusing on the city’s breweries.
Favorite Foods
Porto’s culinary delights became a highlight of our trip. Some favorites included octopus, Francesinha (a heart-stopping specialty sandwich), chouriço sausage, charcuterie plates, Pastéis de Nata (which we watched being made at Atelier de Pastéis), saladitos (delicious pub snacks), fresh lemonades, and sangria.
Ribeira District
We wandered through winding alleys where the best dining spots were found up the hill rather than along the river. As we strolled, we soaked up the lively atmosphere and enjoyed the evening entertainers along the waterfront.
Historic Sites
Porto Cathedral
A Romanesque-Gothic masterpiece with medieval origins and a significant starting point for many Camino de Santiago pilgrims, including Helene, who began her pilgrimage here after our trip.
Chapel of Souls
Its stunning exterior is adorned with blue and white azulejos depicting biblical scenes.
São Bento Railway Station
Inside, breathtaking azulejo tile murals illustrate Portugal’s rich history, making this train station a masterpiece of art and architecture.
Torre dos Clérigos
Climbing this bell tower rewarded us with panoramic, 360-degree views of Porto.
Avenida dos Aliados
The heart of Porto, perfect for shopping and sightseeing. We browsed boutiques, relaxed at cafes, and admired the grand City Hall, a striking landmark at the avenue’s top.
Unique Spots
Livraria Lello
Often called one of the world’s most beautiful bookstores, its grand staircase and intricate woodwork made it feel like stepping into a fairytale.
The “Most Beautiful McDonald’s”
Housed in a neoclassical building, this McDonald’s features art deco stained glass windows, grand chandeliers, and a lavish interior.
Church of São Francisco
Renowned for its lavish Baroque interior and eerie catacombs filled with an ancient ossuary.
Jardim das Virtudes
A popular park among locals, offering stunning views of the Douro River and a unique vertical garden design. It was the perfect spot to enjoy a “to-go” beer from a nearby craft beer bar.
Across the River in Vila Nova de Gaia: Port Wine Tastings
Calem’s Tour & Tasting
A fascinating look into Port wine history and production, followed by a selection of tastings.
Cockburn’s Tour & Tasting
A unique experience featuring vintage barrels and an in-house cooper’s workshop.
Taylor’s Restaurant and Patio
We indulged in an upscale lunch with rooftop views at Barão Fladgate, followed by Port on Taylor’s patio, surrounded by lush gardens and peacocks.
Kopke Port Tasting with Chocolate Pairing
A decadent journey through the oldest Port house, blending tawny Ports with indulgent chocolate delights.
Day Trip to Coimbra
From Porto, we hopped on the express train for a day trip to Coimbra.
Coimbra University
A UNESCO World Heritage site, with breathtaking views of Coimbra’s red rooftops. We snagged last-minute tickets to the stunning Baroque Biblioteca Joanina and explored the Cabinet of Curiosities, a quirky collection of the university’s most unusual artifacts.
Museu Nacional de Machado de Castro
Beneath the museum, we discovered well-preserved subterranean passageways and structures from Roman times.
Week 2: Guimarães, Braga, and Peneda-Gerês National Park
Our second week took us to the UNESCO-listed city of Guimarães and the historic city of Braga, often referred to as the “Rome of Portugal.”
Highlights from Guimarães
Guimarães Castle
A fortress steeped in Portugal’s early history, though modest on the inside.
Palace of the Dukes of Braganza
A stunning palace with an intricate wooden ceiling resembling the inside of a boat, and a striking courtyard blending medieval and Renaissance elements.
Historic Center
We explored beautifully preserved squares, including the medieval Largo da Oliveira Square, and wandered charming alleyways.
Highlights from Braga
Braga Cathedral (Sé de Braga)
Portugal’s oldest cathedral, featuring a blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque architecture.
Arco da Porta Nova
A grand 18th-century archway marking the entrance to Braga’s historic center.
Praça da República
A lively square full of cafes and fountains, bustling with locals and visitors.
Rua do Souto
A charming pedestrian street lined with shops, cafes (perfect for a sangria break), and the historic Church of Santa Cruz.
Bom Jesus do Monte
We rode the unique water-powered funicular to the top, then walked down the 573 steps, pausing at terraces to admire the intricate fountains and chapels depicting the Passion of Christ.
Peneda-Gerês National Park
We spent a day hiking and swimming in this park, home to lush forests, cascading waterfalls and crystal-clear swimming holes. Along the trails, we spotted wild horses and the park’s charming Cachena cows roaming freely.
Week 3: Douro Valley
For our final week, we spent five nights in the Douro Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its breathtaking scenery and world-renowned Port wine.
Highlights from the Douro Valley
Stay at Quinta de Marrocos
This family-run vineyard was a trip highlight, offering unmatched hospitality. We toured the vineyards, enjoyed elaborate breakfasts, and savored a farm-to-table dinner paired with generous pours of Port.
Quinta Vallado
We experienced a lovely Port tasting with local bites, followed by a scenic vineyard and wine cellar tour.
Pinhão Region Tour
Taking the train from Régua to Pinhão, we joined a small-group tour that included stunning viewpoint stops and tastings at two quintas paired with regional bites.
Lamego
A perfect day trip destination, known for its magnificent Baroque stairway leading up to the Nossa Senhora dos Remédios church.
Final Thoughts
Northern Portugal exceeded all our expectations. The Douro Valley’s summer heat was intense, but the region’s beauty and charm made it worth it. Public transportation was reliable, ridesharing was widely available, and trains made city-hopping easy. The only challenge was reaching Peneda-Gerês National Park, which required extra planning.
Traveling with Helene and Denise made this journey even more memorable. From city adventures to tranquil vineyard stays, Northern Portugal offered the perfect blend of culture, nature, and cuisine.
